Restaurateur Chris Crader’s New Café Serves up Sweet and Savory Fare in Granville
The founder of Harvest Pizzeria and Cosecha Cocina leans into breakfast and lunch fare at his newest venture, housed in a former train station.
Known for his attention to detail and penchant for locally sourced ingredients, Granville resident Chris Crader also knows how to create special dining experiences in unique buildings. Crader’s original Harvest Pizzeria was a former house in German Village, and Cosecha Cocina was an old dairy barn. His latest creation, aptly named Station, has taken up residence in a former Granville train depot built in 1880.
Station is a patisserie, coffee shop and lunch spot with a West Elm vibe. The restaurant features original elements of the train station, which operated until the 1970s, including wooden waiting room benches around the perimeter of the ambiently lit, midcentury-style dining room. Guests order at the counter and select one of nine marble tables paired with brass-armed chairs. The exterior has a large dining area with a wraparound porch, shade and fire pits.
The baked goods are from Crader’s own Granville Bread Co., run by Kate Djupe (formerly of Service Bar), and present strong competition to the kitchen menu of sandwiches, salads and occasional Harvest pizzas. And since you’re met with a visual feast of pastries lining the counter, the globally inspired baked goods (think: Mexican concha and French croissants) have a major advantage.
Many options are great for carryout, including Granville Bread Co.’s Station sourdough ($6), with a tangy flavor, delightfully chewy texture and a crackly crust. This loaf will serve as a daily reminder that a trip to Granville should be a regular occurrence.
The spinach artichoke breakfast bun ($6) should be eaten on-site. Lightly toasted, the buttery bun boasts a piquant artichoke-first flavor, with the vegetables mixed and topped with cheese in the center of the pastry.
The dense and sizeable coffee cake ($6) loaded with a crumbly, nutmeg-laden topping is one item to stash for a snack later.
The shining star of the savory menu is the chicken biscuit ($9). A medium egg meets a perfectly fried, not-too-greasy chicken thigh, a thin layer of house-made pimento cheese and delightful pickled pimento peppers that give the sandwich a sweet tang. All of this is within a warm, flaky biscuit. There’s no way to be dainty when eating this sandwich. And that’s OK.
The Bodega with sausage sandwich ($9.50) is not quite as showy but stands on its own. A spongy roll with sesame and poppy seeds is the vehicle for a thin folded egg, Black Radish Creamery cheddar, house-made sausage and a small portion of caramelized onions. More onions or a side of red pepper pesto ($1.50) could bring a bit of moisture to this dry sandwich.
In sum, this charming, historic building has had many lives—train station, newspaper office, real estate agency—but Station may be its best use yet.
Station425 S. Main St., Granville, 740-920-4275; stationgranville.com
This story is from the January 2023 issue of Columbus Monthly.