Lindey’s staying power based on quality preparations

Gary Seman Jr.
For The Columbus Dispatch
The spicy chicken sandwich gets a kick from cayenne, paprika and chili oil.

Celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2021, Lindey’s in German Village is a staple of upscale-casual dining in central Ohio.

The current menu, a mix of the classic and seasonal, is “built for comfort,” chef Max Avon said.

“Lindey’s was always designed to have an American bistro-type of menu, especially right now,” Avon said. “Some people really want that comfort food.”

Customers need to look no further than the lamb chops ($38) — an entire rack marinated in rosemary that is seared and cut into double chops that are grilled to order. The plate includes buttermilk mashed potatoes infused with gouda, crispy onion straws and a pool of reduced lamb jus with red wine.

“The lamb is very popular,” Avon said. “It travels well for the people in the neighborhood who are ordering some of our curbside service.”

A long-standing menu item, the tournedos of beef ($38) offer two 4-ounce filets topped with rich, house-made bearnaise, a side of buttermilk-chive mashed potatoes, crunchy asparagus and the ubiquitous onion straws.

“That’s one of our core items that will never go away,” he said.

Somewhat rare in central Ohio, Lindey’s serves a rotisserie half chicken ($24) sourced from the highly regarded Bell & Evans farm in Pennsylvania. Brined and then rubbed with fresh herbs and olive oil, it’s spit-roasted for about an hour. The poultry is served with thin green beans, buttermilk-chive mashed potatoes and a rich truffle pan sauce at the bottom of the plate.

Lindey’s rounds out its menu with a number of seafood options, such as the pan-seared and oven-roasted Australian sea bass ($33). The colorful plate features a crispy Creole risotto cake, braised Swiss chard, sweet corn cream at the base and drizzle of jalapeno tabasco.

“It’s a really beautiful plate when it comes out,” Avon said.

Two soups are custom-made for the season: lobster bisque ($6 a cup, $9 a bowl) and French onion soup ($5, $8).

The homemade bisque is built with lobster and fish stock and gets a garnish of petite diced shrimp, sherry cream and chives.

The French onion version uses homemade beef stock, Vidalia and Spanish yellow onions, and herbs. In classic fashion, a homemade crouton is placed in the center of the stock, all topped with a mix of Gruyere and provolone cheeses.

“It’s really not a complex recipe,” Avon said. “I think what makes it the best is the melty cheese on top with a crouton.”

There are plenty of casual options for lunch. The spicy chicken sandwich ($12) gets some smoke and heat from cayenne, paprika and chili oil, offset by house-prepared bread-and-butter pickles, coleslaw and a creamy Parmesan dressing.

Fries are recommended on the side. Hand-cut and soaked in water to remove some of the starch, the potatoes are twice-fried for optimal results, Avon said.

Whether seeking time-tested dishes or a new twist on modern fare, Lindey’s will deliver with quality results, Avon said.

“We change seasonally when we need to," he said, "but we’ve got some great core items people always come back for."

Pan-seared and oven-roasted sea bass

At a glance


169 E. Beck St.

11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily