Restaurant review: German-inspired fare makes every day Oktoberfest at 1487 Brewery
You can’t make this stuff up. While settling into a patio table on a warm and sunny afternoon weeks before spring had officially begun, the song “Walking on Sunshine” began wafting through an open garage-style glass door at 1487 Brewery.
Yeah, that’s a corny tune. But as I put on sunglasses to better view the heaving plates of tempting fried food and huge mugs of house-brewed beer brought to a neighboring table, I started humming those relentlessly optimistic notes.
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After laughing, my generally jaded tablemate confirmed that the earworm summed up her mood then, too. We’d have more reasons to hum soon as 1487 Brewery confirmed my rule of thumb that booze-producing places usually make pretty good food, too.
Origins of 1487 Brewery
Open in Plain City since late 2020, 1487 Brewery derives its name from the date of the “Reinheitsgebot” German law, decreed over 500 years ago, that strictly regulated beer-making ingredients. Other German influences are apparent here, too.
That patio — part of the rustic, enclosed area is covered — is essentially a beer garden with a fire pit, lawn chairs and picnic-style tables. The airy, spacious and party-accommodating interior — which includes a big bar and offers picnic-style tables, too — recalls a German beer hall.
But it’s a modern beer hall, where you won’t see servers in dirndls or lederhosen. And everything is ordered — and paid for — remotely, via QR codes and credit cards.
This no-assigned-waiter system is convenient but not flawless. I learned this when I had to scan the premises for assistance after my jumbo soft pretzel and well-named and well-made beer cheese ($14.87, with zesty-sweet mustard) were dropped off at a too-cool temperature.
My served-hot Buffalo cauliflower wings ($14.87) — hearty lumps of crispy and spicy, lightly breaded, on-point vegetables — made a better starter. And they made an excellent beer partner.
Thirsty visitors can order brews attractively presented in Oktoberfest-worthy, liter-sized, dimpled glass steins. That’s about 34 ounces, so plan accordingly.
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The helles is 1487’s signature beer ($10 a liter; $6 a half-liter). It’s light, crisp, lemony and food-friendly, but I preferred the similar and clove-accented hefeweizen (same prices).
Prefer something sweeter and maltier? Try the same-priced dunkelweizen.
Can’t make up your mind? Try a recommended, value-forward four-beer flight ($8).
Salads, schnitzel sing
Characteristically, the chopped Caesar salad ($14) was large, above-average and used crispy bacon as its crouton component. Its creamy house-made dressing was brightened by lemon and deepened by anchovy and Parmesan shards.
The schnitzel ($14.87 — a convenient, popular price here) was another winner. Pounded-thin twin pork cutlets arrived fried to golden-brown and crispy. They're even better with a squirt of lemon.
Like most entrees, the crinkly schnitzels come with a side, such as seasoned fries or tots that drive home the kitchen’s skill with hot oil. Two other options were enlivened by cider-vinaigrette notes: warm German potato salad (featuring discs of red spuds) and an above-average sauteed veggie medley (broccoli, cauliflower, carrots).
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And don't forget the spicy bologna sandwich
Those good fries and tots arrived in enormous portions with sandwiches like the standout 1487 spicy bologna ($14.87, you guessed it). One of the best bologna sandwiches around, this smoky, spicy, slightly fruity and Reuben-evoking triumph had audibly crunchy griddled good bread loaded with seared, juicy, shaved meat from Lanning’s Foods (of Mount Vernon) plus melted Swiss, pepper jam, aioli and arugula.
Lanning’s also supplies the proprietary quarter-pound bratwurst with nutmeg notes served on a pretzel roll with sauerkraut and chunky peppers and onions ($12, with a side). Once the sausage’s slightly pink interior was reheated, this sandwich tasted great but fell apart easily.
Peppers and onions were companions for the cauliflower farro veggie burger, too ($15, with a side). The veggie patty had about the same consistency as a standard black bean burger but characteristically, it was crisper, better tasting and more interesting.
Where: 7620 Industrial Pkwy., Plain City
Contact: 614-536-1487, www.1487brewery.com
Hours: 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday and Wednesday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Thursday through Saturday; closed Sunday and Monday. (Note: kitchen closes at 9 p.m.)
Price range: $10 to $17
Ambience: big and roomy modern beer hall with a partially covered beer garden, sizable parking lot and friendly servers who deliver food and drinks ordered and paid for remotely via QR codes and credit cards
Children's menu: no
Reservations: for parties of 10 or more
Liquor license: beer and wine
Quick click: Every day is like Oktoberfest at this party-friendly brewery and restaurant with generally good German-accented pub grub and house-brewed beers.